Our Boss CE-1 power conversion bypasses the internal power transformer and allows the pedal to be powered by an 18V DC power source rather than plugging into a 120V AC power source. This can be helpful for people that live in areas with different voltage standards or just for making the pedal pedalboard-friendly as it’ll be compatible with an isolated 18V DC power supply.
We’ve found that the Dunlop ECB-004 is a great option for our mods as it’s readily available and high quality. However, any quality power supply can be used if it’s: 1. 18V DC 2. Tip Negative 3. 2.1mm Barrel Jack 4. 100mA or higher 5. Isolated (no daisy chains or Y cables)
Another consideration for this project was the value of the pedal and preventing any permanent modifications to the pedal. This mod is entirely reversible with the stock transformer remaining untouched, the power switch wiring isn’t modified, the new power circuit (small, purple rectangle seen above) is mounted using pre-existing holes in the chassis, and the DC jack fits in the stock power cable hole.
There are plenty of reasons to build your own cables which I’m not going to get into here. If you’ve decided to go ahead and customize your pedalboard, repair your broken cables, or build new ones from scratch these are our recommendations:
Pedalboard & Patch Cables- really anything that isn’t going to be strained, pulled, and unplugged constantly:
Jack- right angle, smaller barrel for tighter boards, gold contacts for corrosion resistance.
Wire- thin, flexible, easy to work with.
Instrument Cable – long leads that will need to take abuse:
Jacks- very durable, unique clamp keeps the wire from pulling out, easy to solder.
Right Angle: Neutrik NP2RX-B
Straight: Neutrik NP2X-B
Wire- durable, coils nicely without tangling, excellent shielding and conductivity.
Copper washer (left) to repair a broken PCB (right)
The 9 Series Ibanez pedals secure the PCB to the chassis using a single screw right next to the DC jack. As these pedals age and become fragile the board can crack around the mounting hole. A copper washer is a quick way to repair the board and prevent further damage.
This is an update to a previous post writing about a hand controller to replace the rocking “wah” style foot controller for the vintage Shin-ei Uni-Vibe pedal. Unfortunately for these pedals you can’t switch them on/off and can’t adjust the rate without a controller of some sort. This is a great option for studio use or for anyone with less space on their board and don’t need to adjust the rate on the fly. This updated version has a 5-pin DIN jack rather than an attached cord for more flexibly in cable length. Currently posted for sale on the FXdoctor store.
A few years back we created a Shin-ei Uni-Vibe Expression Pedal as a replacement for the original controller which can be hard to find. The Uni-Vibe requires a controller to adjust the rate and for bypass so if the controller goes missing or is damaged then the Uni-Vibe is useless. The one picture above offers the same functionality but in a smaller 2.5″ x 4.5″ package that’s designed to be activated by hand rather than with your foot.
Edited to add: check out Part 3 for another variation on this device.
As a company that repairs vintage electronics we often run into the problem of finding quality replacements for discontinued ICs. Third-party companies will often make reproductions for popular chips but for the less common chips we’re on our own to find a suitable replacement. The NE5554N is a dual polarity voltage regulator used in older EHX pedals like the Micro Synthesizer and Memory Man. We made a PCB replacement using surface mount voltage regulators and utilize the PCB as a heatsink. This provides better heat dissipation as the stock chip (and suitable replacements) will heat up under use. These boards are NOT for sale; we exclusively use them in our repairs.
This tap tempo footswitch controller was designed to display the tempo that was most recently tapped. This project was a fun experiment into the Adafruit Trinket world but will not become a product that we sell. All credit for the code goes to Phillip Burgess and his project page can be found here if you’d like to build your own or get more information on how the circuit works.
Some interesting parts of this project include how to interface a tap tempo footswitch with another delay pedal. The problem being that some delay pedals will average together your inputs and other pedals will simply take the time between the last two inputs. The tempo displayed will be 100% correct to what was entered but your pedal may actually be at a different rate depending on how it interprets your inputs. Other considerations include how practical is this? At the end of the day it’s a fun toy, but I’m not sure if knowing the tempo is going to matter for most applications.
And some general tech specs: 125B enclosure, soft touch foot switch, 9V DC input at around 20-50mA of power usage, two ¼” jacks to control two delay pedals and the option to add as many outputs as needed. For any DIYers I strongly recommend going slow and hand filing the cutout for the screen as it was by far the most time consuming part of the project.
A customer sent in this feature-rich ISP Beta Bass because it has a footswitchable distortion but oddly enough no volume control. The addition of a volume control allows us to boost or cut the distortion section so the user no longer needs to compromise gain and volume levels. After the mod the distortion section can also work as a clean boost.
One of the great things about the large EHX casings is that there is plenty of room to add knobs on the pedal. This pedal was one of our own to experiment on. Our mix knob has been popular on flanger and phaser pedals so we decided to add it to this chorus pedal. Chorus is simply a dry signal mixed with a pitch shifted (vibrato) signal so this mix control allows you to make the chorus effect a bit more subtle by mixing in some clean guitar or more intense by mixing in more of the vibrato sound. Turning the knob entirely clockwise will give a full vibrato effect.
We added a Depth Knob which affects how wide the LFO sweeps.Since adding a Depth knob makes the Depth switch redundant, we decided to rewire it as an Intensity Switch. When pushed up the pedal is at it’s stock tone, when slid down it is a more subtle shimmer effect.
Other mods include a Volume knob to help the pedal boost the signal an appropriate amount and a Boss style barrel jack to replace the stock ⅛” phone jack. Overall a very versatile pedal with an entirely analog circuit path which should cover a wide variety of tones.
In a previous post we combined a Pro Co Rate and EHX Big Muff into one enclosure with a few modifications. We decided to take this one step further and add both a Rat and a Tubescreamer into this USA Big Muff for an even more versatile sound. We didn’t want to dramatically change the tone of each effect but we did decide to go with some minor tweaks on each circuit.
Big Muff: We added our “Body Knob” to adjust the lower midrange and help the pedal sit well in the mix. We also moved the stock LED right next to the footswitch so it would match the layout of the added footswitches. This pedal already had true bypass so we didn’t need to change the switch but we did install a “Boss style” barrel jack to make it easier to power.
Ibanez Tubescreamer TS-9: For the TS-9 we converted the pedal to true bypass and simply replaced the stock IC with a socket and a JRC4558D as it should have had from the factory.
Pro Co Rat: While I think this pedal needs a bass boost we decided against putting that modification in as that may muddy up the Big Muff which is located down the signal path. We simply removed the stock chip and installed the LM308N and left the rest of the audio path unchanged.
This has been a great way to utilize the empty space in the cavernous Big Muff enclosure and make a convenient, all-in-one distortion pedal to cover a wide variety of tones.