Soldering Irons:
Hakko FX-888D – A popular mid-level soldering iron. Lots of tips available, heats up quick, good overall iron. Weller is also a popular choice but my favorite model was discontinued.
Hakko FX-971 – More than twice the price of above but is a great choice for extensive SMD soldering.

Soldering / Desoldering Accessories:
Kester Lead-Free Solder – Buy a pound so you don’t run out mid project.
Solder Reel Dispenser – Put your reel of solder on a dispenser for easier positioning.
Hakko 599B Tip Cleaner – Brass shavings to clean the soldering tip instead of a wet sponge.
Tip Tinner – Cleans and conditions soldering iron tip. Works wonders.
Solder Sucker – A great option to have on hand in addition to desoldering wick.

Hand & Power Tools:
Xcelite 170M Shearcutters – Seriously, buy a pair of shearcutters. I see so many people using wire cutters which just can’t get in tight against the PCB to clean up the leads after soldering.
Xcelite 378M Thin Pliers – Small pliers are so much easier to work with when trying to navigate inside of a pedal casing. Great for precisely bending leads, grabbing parts to be desoldered, or fishing wires through tight spaces.
ESP Spanner Wrench – This is the tool you need to remove and install knurled nuts like found on vintage MXR footswitches or Gibson guitar toggle switches. Better than using pliers and less risk of damaging the pedal’s finish.
Precision T-Rule – Accurately measure from the edge of the casing for marking where you need to drill. Down to 1/64″ so you can get very accurate center lines. You’ll need a very fine mechanical pencil to use the indexing holes.
Center Punch – Mark the hole so the drill bit doesn’t walk out of alignment. There are automatic versions but I prefer this style and find them to be less likely to slip. Wear your hearing protection because this is LOUD.
Bosch power drill – A good general purpose drill that’s not too heavy or oversized. Grab it when it’s on sale.
Seiko Step Drill Bits – Step drill bits are great to have on hand for opening up holes to a slightly larger size. Be sure to check fitment as you drill to make sure you don’t accidentally go one size too far. These are cheap ones; Irwin makes a cobalt version for harder metals (stainless steel) or heavy use.
Craftsman 1/4″ Spinner Handle – Much more comfortable and convenient for low torque applications where you don’t need a ratchet. Buy a socket set that comes with one or get one to add with your current socket collection.
Tekton 6-point SAE & Metric 1/4″ Socket Set – Covers every size you’ll find on a pedal. You’ll want both metric and SAE and up to a 1/2″ deep socket for footswitches. 6-Point sockets are more durable and less prone to rounding than a 12-point. If you’re going to use this for other projects or for daily use, buy a nice set and don’t think about it again. If on a budget, this generic set is probably fine for light use and still much better than using an adjustable wrench.
Klein Hex (Allen) Key Set – Metric and SAE, long handle with ball end for getting into tight spots.

This circuit board started out as a way for us to test some PCB design features that we wanted to bring to other products that we offer. In the first photo you can see our first shot at making tubescreamer circuit board and our revised board (lower) that was cleaned up a few years later.

This 54mm x 21mm layout can fit in a 1590B enclosure (think MXR Phase 90) or we could put two in a single 125-B enclosure. This is a great option to be installed in a Big Muff like in our Tripel Big Muff.

Overall this was a fun build. Some key upgrades include using film caps instead of 1uF electrolytic caps, a socket for the op amp that holds a vintage JRC4558DD, Nichicon high voltage caps so it can operate at 18V if needed, and TS808 resistors are labeled separately since that’s a common swap on the TS9 circuits. Another design choice was to place the diodes on the back side of the PCB. This gives easy access for installing diode-selecting switches in the future or if we wanted to try some oversized or oddball diodes. Below is a quick video of what a typical assembly process looks like. It’s a 2 minute video but covers about a 30 minute process. Please enjoy the generic, royalty-free rock music.